The metering mode on the most basic for “Mr. Chicken” 😛
Basically, the metering is the most important when taking pictures. But these guys know what it’s producing idiots rarely pay attention to the metering, which it has said it is no longer noticed as “idiots” anymore. So it designed several new automatic exposure mode for everyone. So we do not need to think anything that just reached out press several times.
The principle of the camera metering based on a concept of trouble is Zone 5, on par with the calculation of a spacecraft launch. So people do not need to dig deep to find out what to do, that it is for the “artist”. You just need to read the manual to know the regulations governing metering on how to stop the machine.
– Metering complex (NTL preferred this term because in the case of cameras to include more distance to the subject can not just simply called Multi Metering points): as you can see in Canon’s explanation, this technique is based on metering results of the whole picture that you have mold (very famous for dividing the image into 256 different regions) camera then calculated and compared compare the results with the cases was calculated pre and for a result (according to the manufacturer) is optimal for each case. This way is very effective metering when the light balance between the subject and the background but it does not give accurate results when large-contrast or poorly subject reflective surface (or vice versa) light bright. When photographing family activities or in cases of soft lighting feature, you should use the measuring light.
– Metering Center: This technique is based on the calculation results of metering of the image in the center of the frame without regard to light at the edges. It is useful when you know exactly the photos you want to prioritize light. Often this technique is used very effectively when you combine the brightness correction add photos “Exposure Compensation” which NTL will talk about in the following.
– Metering Point: this is a very difficult technique to use for those who do not have much experience in photography. It allows you to accurately metering a small area of the image (usually by always part of the area of the AF point auto focus within sight). Its theory is simple: if the light at a point is correct, then the remaining points will be accurate. But you should remember that the metering point select “Spot” right to require a lot of hands-on experience jog.
– Adjust the brightness measurement results: “Exposure Compensation” ** is one of the important techniques that you need to catch to get a beautiful picture simply because the light is always changing and each situation is different. Its basic principle is: you see your picture taken “morning” or “evening”?
If we call metering results in the automatic mode of the camera is Ev (Exposure Value), you see the diagram below:
-3Ev, -2EV, -1Ev, Ev, + 1EV, + 2EV, + 3EV
Technical terms called it “The Zone System” but let’s forget it away. NTL do not want you to fall into a matrix of things not needed at this time. You can imagine very simple: from the initial value Ev, if you go to the right + 3EV, then your pictures will be completely white, if you go to the left side, then your pictures -3Ev black sheer will.
So we can apply it like in reality?
– In a sunny day and you want your picture taken with high contrast should be adjusted to the value Ev (-) negative. Adjusting this will also increase the saturation of colors, ie colors in your photos more passionate, more brilliant. When you take a flash “Fill-in” outdoor, the correction will highlight -Ev very beautiful subjects.
– When you’re photographing someone in the shade but the background is the sun such as long distance, then if more coverage of the flash, “fill-in” the increasing number of (+) positive Ev will help you subject clearly expressed (but the background will be overexposed jog, or in other words you have risen + Ev value for background). That totally just an example so you can understand easily the metering calibration results only, it is not itself a most effective solution when taking pictures.
– In addition, the calibration technique Ev also help you avoid the “trap” the light we still often encounter when taking pictures. For example, most of the camera metering based on the percentage (%) of light reflection from the subject (the convention is equivalent to 18% of light right) but if you take a green tropical forests this reflectivity is 18% smaller than the standard and the camera automatically increases the light aperture to balance your photos, your photos accidentally being overexposed “over-exposure” *** and in case where you shoot a scene that white snow reflects light snow greater than 18%, the camera again sought to reduce light aperture “F-stop” like **** and your photos are underexposed “Under-exposure” ***
In the first case you need to edit the value Ev (-) negative, and in the second case you need to edit the value Ev (+) positive
Since photography was born until this problem when shooting metering is always a hot topic and attractive. Because photography is painting with light so bright determining the right amount of content required for expression of a photograph is extremely important. The difference between Pro photographers and amateurs are also in the light of the image. Metering technique has constantly developing specialized equipment which the most famous is the handheld light meter – Exposure Meter. At the time the ’70s of the twentieth century, the rapid progress of the metering installation in the camera cassava has truly created a turning point and put the handheld metering devices become Own Studio tools. With time, experience and scientific progress, the SLR and dSLR recent results accurate exposure and stable. But never machinery can replace 100% human. Only you who know I need a morning how much of the photo will be taken. Machines help you know the technical parameters of light, but it can not tell you the exact pair of parameters “lens aperture / speed photography” What is needed? To be able to measure the true light, or pinpointed, the amount of light we need to know the following basic principles:
1. Learn to detect beautiful light: NTL want to say to you that not even the brightest sunlight, it is synonymous with beautiful light. Beautiful light are often complex, with multiple degrees turn, generate good volume … You can see the beautiful light on sunny days, rainy days or even once in a gloomy winter afternoon. Make a habit of observation and detection.
2. Learn to interpret the light field: the personal experiences of his own, then a scene with sunshine is often difficult to express beauty and art photographs as desired. In contrast cloudy day have the opportunity to compose good. Before shooting himself a few minutes you should to analyze directional light, shadow, contrast differences between regions … Many times the same scene but with different lighting gives very different results. Light conditions are the main determinants and technical layout of the photo. Photographing also need patience to wait for an appropriate light.
3. Learn to estimate the light: this is not an easy job, it seems very Pro, but if you really want to achieve, only regular exercise. First you take it as a standard ISO 100 self-made pair set aperture / speed, then use the camera to determine the results. When you have the ability to estimate the true light is entirely possible to accurately determine the difference between the light areas and possible solutions.
4. Need to know what you want to express? A famous photographer Japanese said the simplest way to determine the right amount of light needed to know their photos are at the picture that “light” or “dark”. If we take the value of “0” as a benchmark for measuring results of the morning, when we proceed to + 2.5 Ev will be very bright picture, as it moves to -2.5 Ev, the photos will be very dark. This is also a fundamental principle to conduct metering calibration results.
5. Need to know the pros / cons of photographic equipment they are using. Not everyone knows that between the film negatives and positives metering principle two very different priorities negatives low light areas, Positive Film priority high-light areas. Besides, you also need to know exactly “Latitude d’exposition” (Exposure Latitude) of each type of film. Please do not confuse this concept with “Gamme Dynamique” (Dynamic Range) offline. But with the current digital machine except Fuji S3 out all dSLR will adhere to the principle of priority areas of high light.
To be able to effectively use metering devices, first need to understand how they work. We can split into 2 main series metering:
1. Exposure Meter, including:
– Light Meter: used to measure continuous light
– Flash Meter: used to measure the flash light in the studio
2. TTL Meter: is the type of equipment built in the SLR, dSLR, MF …
Two lines of this device operates on two disparate principles. “Exposure Meter” measured light to the subject. For accurate exposure results we need to put the subject closest Meter and exact direction white hemispherical lens of the machine forward. This orientation angle is important to influence the results of metering. Often people find a way that the axis of the camera lens aligns with the white hemispherical. Advantages of Handheld Meter is that it is not influenced by the color or shade, light of the subject. But the contrary is not always possible to close also to metering as in the case of distant landscapes. Tips to resolve this case over your head held high and Meter direction white hemispherical camera towards the most distant. Meter results of metering accuracy only by region and this is a major drawback.
Type TTL Meter measuring the light reflected from the object through the camera lens. Metering how exactly this aspect that it will receive light from objects to mention all the changes on the distance traveled. But its drawback is strongly influenced by the color of the object as well as the dark, its light. Such results will be inaccurate metering and we need to apply additional metering calibration results (will be mentioned later) In SLRs, high-end dSLR usually have three typical metering techniques:
– Matrix or Multizone: this is the most advanced technology allows the camera to manipulate metering in many different areas of the image, and then compared with the case of metering is calculated in advance and stored in memory, the next processing machine would most complete results. Candles Meter TTL remember that previously only the average value of the whole image only.
– Metering centers, or see our section for metering with circular symbols, representing about 75% of mold in sight. When metering operation, the machine will only calculate values found within this limit only. This metering method is particularly effective with the portrait genre.
– Metering point: depending on the angle metering machine that “spot” changes in the range from 1 ° to 5 °. This is the method Pro photographers popular because it says exactly the contrast of the image and for an incredibly creative possibilities.
Both types of devices are active metering based on industry standard “18% of its medium gray.” Kodak has made “Grey Card” serve the needs Metering “standard” is. Within the scope of this article NTL just want to mention outdoor metering operations with natural light rather than artificial light, very actively, in the studio.
As mentioned in the article # 1, the analysis of a frame of light plays an important role especially in the creative. Based on the principle of “Zone System” we can split the contrast of the image according to the following levels:
1. Contrast weak: when the difference between the brightest light / dark Smaller least 4 Ev. In this case the intervention of darkroom techniques with classic movies will give us the necessary contrast.
2. Contrast medium: This morning when the difference is 5 Ev. This is a basic case and is ideal for all kinds of images.
3. High contrast, when the difference is greater than 6 Ev morning. With this situation I will lose detail or in high light areas, or in low light areas, depending on preferences. The handling of the coated film manipulation to select paper type zoom has a decisive role for image quality.
With digital we can fully apply these principles and conduct additional photo editing tools with computerization. With static scenes, when the difference is too big light, the perfect solution is taken two separate shots and then put together. You should remember that if the original image has lost the details are not a software that can recreate them in addition to “copy & paste”. Another solution may be applied ND filter is used to add a large coefficient.
Now let’s go back to techniques used metering “TTL Meter” – the most popular type of device. According to experience their own personal technique, the NTL found “Matrix” completely reliable with no direct light, or reflection of light dissipation. When the difference is high, bright central metering is the most flexible solution and also allows you to manipulate very quickly. Finally spot metering technique “spot” especially easy for creative, new techniques only tell you very precisely the amount of light needed for photographs in a delicate situation to light.
Besides, we can use the “Grey card” to measure brightness when shooting landscapes such. You just need to Grey Card in the same general illumination scene, then proceed on it with TTL metering Meter. This solution avoids the influence of color on the subject, but you need to do further editing results metering +1/2 to +1 Ev Ev with bright colors and scenes -1/2 to -1 Ev Ev with dark-colored landscape. Conversely, when you live with TTL metering with the image Meter, the dark mystery and we need to manipulate -Ev + Ev with bright colored landscape. The reason is simple: the camera view all under 18% gray, it “suggests that” the situation is colored bright “flares” to actively reduce the amount of light, contrast for dark scenes. If we take the example screenshot you need to calibrate the black coal metering results about – 2EV, then a snow scene may need to +2 Ev. Manipulation metering calibration results are especially important for macro images when the subject of color dominate the frame. With practical experience we can see that yellow to +1 1/2 Ev; dark purple or dark red to -1 1/2 Ev …
When you encounter a situation too complicated light metering operations on the palms will be a good solution. You just point the lens at which the pair see the results of “aperture / speed” but remember that hand skin reflects light gray 2x 18%, so we need to reduce travel to -1 Ev right result.
These are the most basic principles that you should remember and proficient when photographed. No one is more effective theoretical practical experience, you need to practice and draw lessons for themselves.